We use them all the  time. But do we really know how to select a hook? What kind works best for the specific species we are pursuing? And what about the myriad sizes, shapes, types, styles and colors. It's enough to boggle the mind. Well we here lend a bit of clarity when it come to the selection and use of the many hooks that are available.

Choosing the Right Hook

With so many choices, even seasoned anglers choose the wrong hook sometimes. 

Here is a quick guide about hooks that will help you make that choice. 

Terminology…

   Art, courtesy of O. Mustad and Sons

The most important thing to know about hooks is to spend a little more money and buy a better hook. Higher carbon hooks have a higher strength / diameter ratio wire. Smaller wire penetrates faster. (Next visit to the doctor’s office, ask for a bigger needle when you get that shot.) 

Size matters…

When choosing size, pick the smallest hook you feel you can get by with. (The size of the fish’s mouth is a good clue.) Match the hook to the pound test line you are using too.  

The “numbers” on those hooks…

Traditional hook sizing starts with the smaller the number, the larger the hook to size “1”.  Then, beginning at size 1, the larger the number, the larger the hook (Small 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2, 1, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0. etc. Larger)

Tip: Ignore the “number” and look at the hook size.

 

Example; this light wire hook is a size “6” Tru-Turn, Cam-Action hook. (Called an “Aberdeen” pattern.) This would be a good size for Pinfish (Great bait for Saltwater) and also a good size for Bluegill fishing with live worms.

Both of these species have a mouth size a little smaller than a dime. This particular hook would easily fit inside a dime with a small piece of shrimp or live worm. (This is the part where you say: “Ah-Ha!”) 

Another example, the same hook in a size “1” would be nearly twice the size and perfect for free-lining a live shrimp for Speckled Trout. Of course, if a 20lb. Snook decided to eat that shrimp, that light wire hook would straighten or your 8lb. test line would break. This brings us to another fishing tip; “If you are missing fish, change hooks.” As you pick up another rod and reel with heavier line for that Snook that got away; you might want to choose a hook with a heavier wire.  

Perhaps this O’Shaughnessy style in maybe a 1/0 or 2/0 size which has a forged wire would be a good one to tie on.





Tru-Turn O’Shaughnessy Hook 

You have a lot of choices.

Many styles or patterns of hooks can catch the same fish. An Eagle Claw, 2/0 Kahle pattern, or a Mustad 3/0 “Octopus” style would work. 

You could try a Daiichi 3/0 Circle Chunk Light for that Snook or the 1/0 size for the Speckled Trout.

Let’s talk about Circle Hooks...

While choosing a normal “J” hook, you are looking for the size that will fit the mouth / jaw. When selecting a circle hook, choose a size that will fit the “lip” while allowing room for the bait. The gap between the point and the shank is critical.

Photo: Daiichi Circle Chunk® Light 

Traditional Circle hooks have a very narrow gap between the point and the shank, making them harder to bait and remove from the fish’s mouth. Newer designs like the Mustad Demon™ Circle and Daiichi’s Circle Wide® have a larger gap. Did you notice the small barb on the inside of the wire on the hook above?

That Stop Gap® feature on the Daiichi Circle Chunk helps prevent the bait from getting jammed between the point and shank which is a common problem on hooks. 

How do Circle Hooks Work?

After a fish inhales your bait, they turn away while “mashing” or killing its meal. It’s that turn that is critical. The circle hook slides back through the fish’s mouth to the angle change of the lip. Bingo! He’s hooked. That’s why you don’t set the hook with circle hooks, just lift the rod or reel in the line slowly until the battle begins!  

Catch and Release

Because circle hooks wrap around the fish’s lip, the hook is exposed for easy removal. Regular “J” hooks tend to hook up further inside the fish’s mouth making the release take longer. 

Where do I hook my live bait?

Let’s pretend, we’re drifting across a flat with a live Finger Mullet or a “White Bait”. You want the bait to look natural so hook the bait up through the lips. Now as you drift, the bait can swim along with you.

Okay, we’ve located some fish and we set out an anchor. We can continue to hook the bait in the lips and the bait can swim “up”. The eyes on Trout are on the top of his head; so that’s a good choice.  But Redfish hug the bottom and tend to look down so hook your bait in the tail and they’ll swim “down” to where the Reds are.

Why Bleeding Bait Red hooks?

After years of underwater studies and tests under actual fishing conditions; here is what Daiichi found out:

1. Fish are naturally attracted to blood. The sight of red means “injured bait” or “easy meal” to fish.

2. As fish feed the gill plates flare exposing the gills. Because the gills just moved, like any muscle there is more blood in them. This phenomenon is called gill flash, the signal from one fish to another; “I’m eating, you’re not!”




 

Photo: Daiichi Bleeding Bait Treble  

How about some proof?

In one test, two anglers’ fished crankbaits with one Bleeding Bait treble and one black treble on each lure. The hooks were moved front to back on the baits during the course of the morning. 29 of the 30 fish caught, were hooked on the Bleeding Bait treble! Proof again that fish “aim” for the Bleeding Bait color.

The earth friendly, Bleeding Bait finish is highly reflective and wears away during use. (If your line breaks, the hook will decompose quickly.) 

For more information…

To learn more about carbon ratings, tempering, Bleeding Bait and the complete line of Daiichi hooks, go to www.daiichihooks.com.

You can also get great information from better tackle dealers in your area.

If you have a real tough question on hooks and can catch TJ in the office, you can e-mail him at tj@tticompanies.com. TJ is a Florida native, Angler (liar), Inventor, and New Product Manager at Daiichi hooks.